What is an LED tube lamp called?

Halogen tube lamps have long been popular, especially in wall lights, uplighters and floodlights. These elongated lamps are recognized by the two contacts at both ends. The LED version is commonly referred to as R7S tube lamps. The designation ‘R7S’ refers to the fitting, which remains identical to halogen, making it easy to switch without replacing the fixture. The key difference is efficiency: LED tube lamps consume far less energy, generate less heat and last significantly longer than halogen bulbs.

Are tube lamps (R7S) dimmable?

Many people wonder whether R7S LED tube lamps can be dimmed. The answer is yes, provided you choose the right model. Always check whether the product description clearly states that it is a dimmable LED lamp. Keep in mind that dimming LED works best with an LED-compatible dimmer, since traditional halogen dimmers are not always suitable. With the right dimmer you can smoothly adjust brightness to create the perfect ambience.

Which light colour for an R7S LED tube lamp?

Choosing the right light colour depends on application and atmosphere. While halogen lamps always emitted warm light (~2700K), LED tube lamps are available in different colour temperatures:

• Warm white (2700K–3000K): ideal for living rooms, bedrooms or spaces where comfort matters.
• Neutral white (4000K): fresh and clear light, perfect for kitchens, bathrooms or work areas.
• Cool white (6000K): bright and functional, often used in floodlights, outdoor lighting or areas requiring high visibility.

By selecting the right colour temperature you can adapt your lighting perfectly to the space and purpose.

Advantages of switching to LED tube lamps

Replacing halogen with LED comes with several benefits. You can save up to 80% on energy consumption, resulting in immediate cost reduction. LED tube lamps also last far longer — often up to 25,000 hours or more — reducing the need for frequent replacements. They generate less heat, making them safer and more versatile. Finally, LEDs are more environmentally friendly thanks to their lower energy use and reduced CO₂ emissions.

Easy replacement in existing fixtures

Another advantage of R7S LED tube lamps is their identical fitting compared to halogen. This means you don’t need new fixtures. Replacing is often as simple as ‘old lamp out, new lamp in’. Just check the lamp length (e.g. 78 mm, 118 mm or 138 mm) to match your fixture. That way you can enjoy all the benefits of LED without hassle.

How does 3-phase track lighting work?

A 3-phase track contains three separate circuits inside one rail. This lets you switch or dim different groups of fixtures independently, creating ambient, accent and task lighting within the same installation. Spotlights and pendants click straight into the track and can be repositioned without extra wiring. Discover our range of 3-fase railverlichting to see what’s possible.

Where is 3-phase track used?

It’s ideal for shops, hospitality, showrooms, galleries, offices and workshops. Any space that needs flexibility and multiple lighting zones benefits from this system. Long runs and higher loads are no problem, and control remains simple.

Benefits vs. 1-phase track

With 1-fase rails, everything runs on a single circuit. That’s fine for homes or small fixed setups. For more control, multiple zones and flexibility, 3-phase is the better choice.

We’ll gladly help you design a complete system and can also provide professional installation to ensure everything works flawlessly.

Why replace a dimmer knob?

The dimmer knob is the part you use the most. Over time, it can wear out, get dirty, or even break. Sometimes you just want a new knob to match your interior. Whatever the reason, a new knob ensures smooth and safe light control again.

What you’ll need

For this task you’ll need:

• A new dimmer knob (compatible with your dimmer brand/type)

• Screwdriver (flat or crosshead, depending on your wall plate)

• Voltage tester or multimeter

• Optional: new dimmer module (if you plan to replace the internal unit too)

Step 1: Turn off the power

Safety first. Turn off the power from your fuse box and use a voltage tester to make sure there is no current flowing to the dimmer. Never start work unless you’re sure the power is off.

Step 2: Remove the faceplate

Most dimmers have a faceplate that you can unscrew or unclip. Behind this, you’ll see the knob attached to the dimmer module’s shaft. Carefully pull the knob straight off. Some require a small clip to be released or a slight twist to come loose.

Step 3: Install the new knob

Take your new knob and press it onto the dimmer shaft. Make sure it fits firmly and sits evenly. Test to see if it rotates smoothly. Some dimmers have a specially shaped shaft (like D-shape or cross), so make sure the knob matches.

Step 4: Reattach the faceplate

Once the new knob is on, reattach the wall plate securely. Make sure it lines up properly and nothing feels loose. Everything should be tight and flush with the wall.

Step 5: Restore power and test

Turn the power back on at the fuse box and test your dimmer. Does it turn smoothly? Does the lighting respond correctly? If everything works, you're done. If not, the problem might be in the dimmer module itself.

Bonus tip: consider replacing the module

Sometimes the knob isn’t the issue – the internal unit might be worn out. In that case, consider replacing the entire module. Just make sure the new dimmer supports the right wattage range and is LED-compatible.

With a new dimmer knob, you’ll be able to adjust your lights smoothly again – and refresh the look of your wall controls too.

LED and watts: a new way of measuring

Unlike incandescent bulbs, wattage doesn’t say much about an LED’s brightness. In the past, a 60-watt incandescent bulb gave a known amount of light. With LEDs, it’s different. LED bulbs are far more efficient: they generate more light per watt. For example, a 6-watt LED bulb can emit as much light as a 60-watt incandescent.

Average wattages for LED lighting

Here are common conversions from incandescent to LED:

• 25W incandescent ≈ 2–3W LED

• 40W incandescent ≈ 4–5W LED

• 60W incandescent ≈ 6–9W LED

• 75W incandescent ≈ 9–12W LED

• 100W incandescent ≈ 12–15W LED

So it’s not about wattage but lumens if you want to know how bright a bulb is.

Lumens vs watts: what really matters?

Lumens indicate the actual light output of a lamp. For example: an 800-lumen LED bulb is similar to an old 60-watt incandescent. When buying an LED bulb, always check the lumens to know the light intensity. Wattage only tells you how much energy it uses.

Choosing an LED bulb: what to consider

Besides watts and lumens, a few other factors matter:

• Color temperature (Kelvin): Warm white (2700K) for atmosphere, cool white (4000K+) for functionality.

• Dimmable or not: Not every LED is compatible with a dimmer.

• Base type: Ensure the bulb fits your socket (e.g., E27, GU10, R7s).

• Beam angle: Spots give focused light, globe bulbs give broader spread.

Why choose 220V garden lighting?

Mains-powered garden lighting is powerful, durable, and suitable for long-term use. Unlike 12V or solar lighting, 220V allows for the connection of more powerful light sources, ideal for large gardens or functional applications such as driveway lighting and security. You also have fewer concerns about batteries or transformers.

Supplies for installation

For safe installation of 220V garden lighting, you need the following:

• Outdoor lighting suitable for 230V (IP44 or higher)

• Ground cables (e.g. YMVK-as or YMVK)

• Earth leakage circuit breaker (for extra safety)

• Outdoor socket or junction box

• Cable boxes with waterproof connections

• Optional dusk switch or motion sensor

Step 1: Create a lighting plan

Determine in advance where you want to place each light. Consider the functions: do you want mood lighting, path lighting, or security around the house? Draw your garden and indicate where you need power points per lamp.

Step 2: Lay the ground cables

Always use special ground cables suitable for outdoor use. Dig a trench at least 60 cm deep and place the cable in a protective tube or cover the trench with sand. Make sure to connect the cables to a waterproof junction box.

Step 3: Connect the lights

Attach the lights in place and connect them using an IP68 cable box. Ensure that the connections are firm and completely waterproof. Always use terminal blocks or waterproof connectors. The lights themselves must also have an IP rating of at least 44.

Step 4: Connect the system to the power grid

Connect the system to an outdoor socket with grounding or directly in the meter cupboard via a separate circuit with earth leakage protection. Consult an electrician if in doubt – working with 230V requires experience and caution.

Step 5: Test and optimise

Once everything is connected, test the system. Are all lights working properly? Optionally switch on a dusk switch or timer for automatic control. Check that all cable connections are properly sealed and that no water can enter.

Extra tips for long-term use

• Always choose fixtures of high quality with metal or sturdy plastic housing.

• Avoid cords running above ground, this is dangerous and can wear quickly.

• Consider a smart switch for control via your smartphone.

With these tips and steps, you can safely and professionally install 220 volt garden lighting. This way, you can enjoy a perfectly lit garden every evening!

What you need for installing a Berker dimmer

Before you start, make sure you have the following tools and materials ready:

• A compatible Berker dimmer (check if it supports dimmable LEDs)

• Screwdriver

• Voltage tester

• Wire stripper

• Possibly a new wall box or cover plate

Also, check if your existing wiring is suitable for your new dimmer.

Step 1: Turn off the power

Always start with safety. Switch off the power at the fuse box before you begin. Use a voltage tester to confirm there is no current in the wires.

Step 2: Remove the old switch

Remove the cover plate and unscrew the current switch. Gently pull it out of the wall box and take note (or a photo) of how the wires are connected.

Step 3: Connect the Berker dimmer

Most Berker dimmers have connection points marked ‘L’ (for live) and an arrow (for the output to the light).

• Connect the brown live wire to the ‘L’ terminal

• Connect the black switched wire to the arrow terminal

• If needed, connect the blue neutral wire according to the manual

Tighten all screws securely without damaging the wires.

Step 4: Mount the dimmer in the wall

Carefully place the dimmer back into the wall box. Fix it in place with screws and attach the cover plate. Make sure everything fits properly.

Step 5: Switch the power back on and test

Turn the power back on at the fuse box. Test the dimmer to see if it works and whether you can adjust the light level. Not working? Double-check your connections or refer to the manual.

Tip: Use dimmable LED bulbs only

Always use dimmable LEDs with a dimmer. Non-dimmable bulbs may flicker or get damaged. Berker offers specific models for trailing-edge (RC) or leading-edge (RL) dimming—choose the right one for your lamp type.

Installing a Berker dimmer is a manageable DIY project with the right preparation. Enjoy customized lighting ambiance in no time!

How does an LED bulb work?

To repair an LED bulb properly, it's helpful to understand how it works. An LED bulb consists of several components: the LED chips, a power driver, a heat sink, and often a diffuser. It's usually the driver or the LEDs that fail. You might notice this if the lamp flickers, doesn’t turn on, or gives off a strange smell.

What can you check yourself?

Before opening the lamp, you can check a few things:

• Does the lamp work in another socket?

• Could there be a problem with the dimmer or switch?

• Has the lamp become warm or discolored?

If none of the above help, you might consider opening the lamp.

Safely opening an LED bulb

Warning: proceed at your own risk. Make sure the lamp is completely cool and not connected to power. Many LED bulbs are glued shut, so be careful when opening. Use a flat screwdriver or knife to gently pry open the diffuser or housing.

Common defects and solutions

1. Faulty driver
The driver converts mains voltage to the correct voltage for the LEDs. If it's broken, you can try replacing it. Make sure the replacement has identical specifications.

2. Defective LED chips
LED chips can burn out or have bad contact. If one chip fails, the entire lamp may stop working. You can try desoldering and replacing it with an identical chip—but this requires soldering skills.

3. Bad solder joints
Due to heat or aging, solder joints can come loose. You can resolder them, but be careful not to damage anything else.

When is repair no longer worthwhile?

If multiple components are damaged or you lack experience with electronics, it’s better to buy a new lamp. Fortunately, LED bulbs are relatively cheap and energy efficient.

What is 12V garden lighting?

12V lighting operates on a safe low voltage, rather than the standard 230V. It requires a transformer to convert power from the main grid. It’s often used with LED lights due to their low energy consumption.

Benefits of 12V outdoor lighting

12V garden lighting is extremely safe and low-risk, even for DIY installations. It's also flexible and energy-efficient—especially when using LED lamps. That means long-term savings and a lower environmental impact.

Popular types of 12V garden lamps

You can choose from spotlights (to highlight trees or art), bollard lights (for paths and borders), wall lights (for fences or patios), and decorative stake lights. Mixing styles allows you to create a complete lighting design.

What to consider when buying

Check the IP rating—IP44 is the minimum for outdoor use, but IP65 offers more protection. Also look at lumens: 100–300 is good for mood lighting, while more is needed for functionality. Some lights are dimmable for added control.

Installation tips for 12V lighting

Choose a suitable transformer with enough power for all your lights. Use waterproof connectors and bury cables 10 cm deep or use cable ducts. Make a lighting plan before starting to avoid rework.

Why choose LED for 12V systems?

LEDs are energy-efficient, long-lasting, and safe. They don’t overheat and are available in various color temperatures to match your preferred ambiance.

12V lighting is the perfect solution for safe and stylish garden lighting. Whether it’s spotlights or bollards, with a good plan your garden becomes an extension of your home.

What is an ION dimmer?

An ION dimmer is an advanced LED dimmer specifically designed for trailing edge technology. This makes it compatible with nearly all dimmable LED lamps, without flickering or humming. These dimmers are often made for flush mounting in standard wall boxes.

Step 1: Always turn off the power first

Safety first. Turn off the power at the fuse box before you start installation. Use a voltage tester to make sure there's no current on the wires you’ll be working with.

Step 2: Remove the old switch

Remove the faceplate and unscrew the current switch from the wall box. Disconnect the wiring and remember which wire goes where. Typically, you'll see a phase wire (brown), a switch wire (black), and possibly a neutral wire (blue).

Step 3: Connect the ION dimmer

Connect the phase wire to the L input and the switch wire to the output that leads to the lamp. In some cases, the blue neutral wire is also needed — check the manual for your specific ION dimmer model. Secure all wires tightly in the terminal blocks.

Step 4: Mount the dimmer

Place the dimmer back into the wall box and screw it in place. Make sure all wires are tucked in safely. Then install the faceplate and the dimmer knob or button.

Step 5: Turn the power back on and test

Switch the power back on at the fuse box and test your lights. Try dimming to see if everything works smoothly. If not, check that your LED bulb is dimmable and that all wires are correctly connected.

Final tips for optimal results

Use only dimmable LED lights compatible with trailing edge dimmers. Whenever possible, match dimmer and lamps from the same brand or check manufacturer compatibility to avoid flickering or faults.